Milan - Milan's big men's wear debut this season was at Gianfranco Ferre, where Lars Nilsson presented his first ideas for the venerable house.

The new boy's take on Ferre was a largely respectful reworking of Gianfranco's grand with a twist style, albeit with a dose of Nilsson's understatement and Edwardian aesthetic. By Edwardian we mean an obsession with checks, snug jackets with large lapels and a gentlemanly dandy mood.

The new Ferre was balanced between two silhouettes: taut double-breasted jackets with voluminously flared trousers, or lean single breasts with pencil pants. The hand of all the fabrics was the usual Ferre quality, wool and cashmere mixes dreamily smooth and plush.

"I wanted to respect the Ferre sartorial tradition but make it a little more contemporary," said Nilsson, who showed his Fall 2008 collection in an elaborate rotunda set, featuring Art Nouveau consuls and towering bookshelves bearing faux velum tomes.

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